The latest addition to Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas line is a thin, skeletonized beauty housed in a rose gold case. Let’s have a closer look!
Introduction
Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 and is the oldest watchmaking company (with continuous production) in the world. They have a rich history and are a highly respected Maison in the watchmaking business. The Overseas collection has been around since 1996 and steadily evolving with new complicated timepieces.
The grandfather of the Overseas collection was actually introduced back in 1977 and called the “222”. This legendary reference first saw daylight during the quartz crisis and was designed by Jorg Hysek, and not Gerald Genta as many believe. They share the same design language though and Mr. Genta was the mastermind behind Audemars Piguets “Royal Oak” and Patek Philippes “Nautilus”.
The Basics
I have always been a fan of skeletonized watches. It gives you a closer look into all the beautiful parts that actually makes the watch tick. To see in real life how the wheels and gears are turning is quite fascinating. For 2020 Vacheron Constantin introduces a skeletonized version of their Overseas Perpetual Calendar and what a watch it is!
Let’s start with the outside. The case and bracelet is crafted from 18K 5N Pink Gold and the diameter of the watch is 41.5mm. It is only 8.1mm thick which is quite impressive for a perpetual calendar watch. I have actually tried on the release from last year, which is basically the same watch, except the skeletonized dial.
The pink gold bracelet has beautifully half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links and is secured by a pink gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system. You can also choose to wear it on either a blue alligator strap, or a blue rubber band. Thanks to the bracelet/strap interchangeability system it is easy to change the appearance of the timepiece. Perhaps rubber strap for a hot summers day and the alligator strap for the evening dinner.
The ultra-thin, in-house, perpetual calendar calibre 1120 QPSQ is only 4.05mm thick which is quite something for a movement packed with complications.
It consists of 276 components that all are entirely finished by hand and made visible through the sapphire glass front and back. The watch shows hours and minutes as well as the date, day of the week, month, leap year (features that are included in the “perpetual calendar”). It also have a moon phase display.
The movement needs no adjustment until 1st of march year 2100.
Personal Thoughts
I am a big fan of the Overseas line. That's not a secret. And the new Openworked Overseas is truly a beauty.
The finishing of the movement and its components is impeccable and I think it looks really good on all three strap options. I’m especially fond of the bracelet and the rubber strap.
The only issue for me is that the case is quite on the large side. I simply couldn’t pull this piece off due to my modest wrist size. I would love to see one in the future sized at 38-39mm which I believe would be ideal. Due to the shape of the case these pieces tend to wear a bit larger than the specified diameter.
Specifications
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton
Reference Number: 4300V/120R-B547
Diameter: 41.5mm
Thickness: 8.1mm
Case Material: 18K 5N pink gold
Dial Color: Skeletonized
Indexes: 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with white luminescent material
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 5 bar (approx. 50m)
Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet, alligator leather strap and rubber band
Caliber: 1120 QPSQ/1
Functions: Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
Moon phase
Diameter: 29.6mm
Thickness: 4.05mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 19,800 vph
Jewels: 36
Price: €132,000
